Inside the Mind of a Watch Industry Leader: Lessons from Breitling's Transformation
Published by Jeremy Gesicki | Pucks and Timepieces
The luxury watch industry is filled with stories of heritage brands navigating modern challenges, but few transformations have been as remarkable as Breitling's renaissance under CEO Georges Kern. Since taking the helm in 2017, Kern has masterfully bridged the gap between Breitling's storied past and its modern future. His approach offers valuable insights for anyone passionate about luxury timepieces and brand evolution.
The Power of Understanding Your Heritage
When Kern joined Breitling, he made a decision that many executives overlook – he went directly to the collectors. Rather than relying solely on internal knowledge, he sought out Fred Mandelbaum (@watchfred), one of the world's largest Breitling collectors, who had been ignored by the brand for over two decades.
"When I walked into his office and saw probably 50 or 60 watches displayed, I realized I knew nothing about Breitling," Kern admitted. "But in seconds, I knew we were going to be very successful because Breitling has one of the deepest and best back catalogues in the watch industry."
This humility and willingness to learn from passionate collectors is something I deeply respect. At Pucks and Timepieces, we understand that the most valuable insights often come from enthusiasts who've lived and breathed these brands for years.
Bridging Two Communities
Kern identified a fascinating challenge that many heritage brands face: "We faced two communities. Firstly, the Breitling fans of the last 20 years – so big, loud, bulky pilot's watches. And then the Breitling fans of the 1930s to the 1980s – and both communities weren't talking to each other."
His solution was brilliant in its simplicity: showcase a 360-degree view of Breitling. This meant honoring both the modern Avenger series and relaunching classics like the Premier and Top Time collections. The strategy worked because it acknowledged that great brands can evolve while staying true to their roots.
The Air, Land, and Sea Philosophy
Perhaps most remarkably, Kern's segmentation strategy of organizing Breitling's collections around air, land, and sea wasn't entirely original – but that made it perfect. Months after implementing this approach, the team discovered a vintage Willy Breitling advertisement using the exact same segmentation.
"We realized he had exactly the same segmentation which we decided to implement once we saw Fred's collection – and it matched," Kern explained.
This serendipitous alignment between past and present demonstrates something crucial: the best modern strategies often echo timeless principles that made brands great in the first place.
The Premier Success Story
The 2021 relaunch of the Premier collection perfectly exemplified Kern's approach. By revealing the collection weeks before Watches & Wonders, Breitling risked being overshadowed by the industry's biggest fair. Instead, the Premier became a sensation that sustained excitement throughout the entire watch calendar.
The collection succeeded because it satisfied both longtime Breitling enthusiasts and critics who had written off the brand. It proved that when heritage is handled with respect and modern execution, magic happens.
Kern's Top 5 Modern Breitlings
During the interview, Kern shared his five favorite modern Breitlings, each representing different aspects of the brand's identity:
- Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 - "Our super icon" with salmon dial and contrasting black counters
- Premier B09 Chronograph 40 - Featuring a unique silver dial unlike any other
- SuperOcean Heritage B20 Automatic 42 - With beautiful green dial, one of their most successful ranges
- Chronomat B01 42 - His daily wear with blue dial and "amazing bullet bracelet"
- SuperOcean Automatic 44 - The turquoise dial piece he wore all summer
Lessons for Collectors and Enthusiasts
Kern's transformation of Breitling offers several key insights:
- Listen to your community: The most passionate collectors often understand a brand better than internal teams
- Honor your heritage: Modern success doesn't require abandoning the past
- Simplify your message: Clear segmentation helps customers navigate complex product lines
- Bridge different eras: Great brands can satisfy multiple generations of enthusiasts
The Pucks and Timepieces Perspective
As someone who works closely with luxury timepiece collectors, I find Kern's approach inspiring. His respect for heritage, combined with modern execution, shows how established brands can remain relevant without losing their soul.
At Pucks and Timepieces, we see this philosophy reflected in our own approach. Whether we're sourcing a vintage Breitling Navitimer or a modern SuperOcean, we understand that each piece represents both historical significance and contemporary excellence.
Through our dealer network, we can source virtually any Breitling model – from current production pieces to rare vintage finds that represent the brand's golden eras. Each timepiece tells a story of aviation heritage, precision engineering, and timeless design.
Ready to Explore Breitling's Legacy?
If Kern's vision of modern Breitling appeals to you, we'd love to help you find the perfect piece for your collection. Whether you're drawn to the iconic Navitimer, the versatile Chronomat, or the robust SuperOcean, we can guide you toward a Breitling that embodies both heritage and innovation.
Contact us to discuss your Breitling interests, or subscribe to our newsletter for insights into luxury timepiece trends and market developments.